Now sole creative director for Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli produced an exquisite, and kind of contemporary first couture collection. A dignified, alluringly pure and wistful collection that oozed grace. It was the return of the Grecian Goddess – flat leather sandals, flowing hair and modest yet feminine floor length column gowns, detailed with the most delicate, airy pleats.
I did once upon a time only associate Haute Couture with extravagant ornamentation, spectacular appliqué, and the most magical dresses excessively crafted with detail beyond detail. However, I am now also appreciative of couture collections that combine luxurious, and impeccable craftsmanship still typically associated with couture traditions, but with a level of refinement and gentle charm. It’s actually quite refreshing.Pierpaolo did just that, showcasing a poetic collection that may not have seemed very Couture at first, but was instead carefully detailed with the most dreamy hand embroidery. Those delightful details also came in sheer tulle gracefully draped over shimmering, lightweight pleated gowns, butterfly embellished motifs (of course), handmade chiffon blush roses, hand stitched ruffles, and silver crystal trimming.
Additionally, long chiffon scarves that trailed behind were a nice touch that added fluidity (cue Zara producing something very similar). The looks were unrestricted in movement – a bit like a dream is unrestricted, too? In regards to colour, there were creamy pastels, with the occasional burst of signature Valentino red, and of course the one dress that came in a striking metallic fuchsia pink (reminds me of the multi-coloured pleated gown in the RTW SS17 collection).
My favourite look of the whole collection (kinda hard as I loved most looks) is probably the heavenly pleated trousers teamed with the transparent tulle top with delicate lining, layered underneath the matching jacket (so hard to explain this look). I also adored the deep v sheer gown adorned with silver rhinestones with feather-light tulle angelically layered on top. Deffinitely the most beautiful SS17 Couture collection.I know it’s been quite some time now but I’m finally starting to believe that the Piccioli and Chiuri separation was a blessing in disguise (well, I also thought this after the Valentino RTW SS17 show – still in LOVE with that fuchsia pink blazer style coat). Maybe, they do in fact have greater opportunity to express their artistic visions in a much more unique light, allowing them both to explore their true inspirations more freely? Although I still believe their talent and passion combined was truly fascinating and hope I see some form of collaboration again in the future. But for now, I guess it’s exciting to see their individual creativity continue to come to life.
LOVE Pierpaolo’s mission statement for the collection: ‘you are living in a dream. Keep walking in your dream. Feel your dream and breathe your dream.’
My favoured looks:‘Essence and truth nestles in dreams, where time does not exist and reality is the result of imagination.’